Friday, August 7, 2009
Moving to Facebook
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Blending: Trials and Tribulations
When Grandpa’s advice comes into play...
It's spring at Napeequa. Time to bottle. But before bottling (or as I call it "elegant canning") blending must be executed. Many of you have heard of it. Putting the finishing touch to a wine before it's sealed behind the cork. Getting the parts and pieces to match up.
Most of what we drink from the world of wine has been blended. From the vineyard we get differences just feet away from one block to another of the same varietal. Variations in hang time, canopy management, row direction, watering regimes, shoot and green thinning all offer subtle nuances to the flavors of the same grape. In the cellar, different yeasts, fermentation temperatures, oak barrels and racking all contribute different flavor profiles to a wine.
The last chance at managing the way a wine will turn out (and greet you in the glass) is at blending. What is it? Well, it's part chemistry, part psychology. The latter, uncovering weakness and strengths in different lots of wine and figuring out how to "build" a wine that hits on all cylinders. I guess Fantasy Footballers know this when they build a team. You build on positioning strengths and weaknesses to finally have a winning collaborative force.
Wine is such a force. But what makes wine interesting (and pleasing) is balance. That experience when aroma, fruit, mouth-feel and finish are in harmony. To me, its when you can't put the glass down. The wine calls out for another go at your pallet. I call it the "Ah Factor".
Each barrel of finished wine has strengths and weaknesses. So at blending, each barrel is tasted or "interviewed". The wine's attributes are assessed and recorded. What's the nose like? The fruit in the mouth, the weight of it, the finish? Did the finish complete with harmony, respecting what the aroma and mouth-feel offered? In cooking, every great recipe always ends with that wriggle-room comment, "season to taste". The amount of wine from certain lots, barrels and varietals is that "season to taste" process in blending.
Then there is your loving Grandpa. "Don't fix it if it ain't broken!" and Hippocrates, "Do no harm". Knowing when not to tamper, to realize that what you started with doesn't necessarily need intervention is as important to the final wine as is getting busy with the pipettes and graduated cylinders. But, oh how the temptation to tinker lurks and prods. To fuss and fiddle in the hope of unlocking a mysterious combination that will wow and dazzle the masses. Podiums, acceptance speeches, applause, a 94 from Harvey Steinman. Whatever. The point is, sometimes doing the most is not doing much.
Our 2007 Cabernet Franc didn't need much. The more I tried to tweak, the more it hid in its shell. A wine so pretty, so fragrant, Coco Channel would have given it a number. However, like a Scion B, it was all clad, no chassis, no horsepower. So I looked to our Merlot. Round and lush but subdued and if I could, almost aloof. A very lovely wine however, it was oaked, where the Cab Franc was not (well, neutral barrels for those keeping score). When all was said and done, it only took a handful of gallons of Merlot to prop it up and give it stature. The cologne-esque quality of the Cab Franc remained intact. Just a nudge was needed. Like tailoring a suit, a tuck here and lengthening there and presto... a beautiful wine.
Once the corks slam home on this process in a few weeks, it will be all over, except for the shouting. That will come when it's released!
David
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
OMG! I can hear my wine!
Could I be creating wine like my favorite style of music?
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Thank you for a wonderful evening!
Visconti's brought home the bacon and fried it up in the pan!
There are a limited number of things representing true precision in the world to enjoy. Reaching the power band on an Audi TT could be one of them or perhaps attending a ballet or even a Broadway play, for that matter. Things of timing, choreography, planned elegance and purpose. My personal and professional thanks go heartfelt to Dan, Candy, Randy, Steve, Cheryl, Elysia and Kalin of Visconti's for their breathtaking performance at our winemaker's dinner this past Saturday in Leavenworth.
For all of those who attended, it was our pleasure to see you smile, laugh and visit while the courses ebbed and flowed. Your bliss-covered faces confirmed the reasons why I love to make wine. I'll keep those memories in my head during the 5 a.m. trip to get fruit in October and the racking on the ice and snow in December.
Months of planning, wading through worst-case-scenarios and anticipating the flow of the evening all came to the line Saturday night. The room was filled with eager and delightful guests ready to tour wine and food at an enjoyable pace. It had come full circle.
A big "thank you" to Heath Putnam and Charles Smasne for giving some of your time. Health of Wooly Pigs and Charles of Smasne Farms. I appreciate you addressing the room and giving us insight into your operations.
To all those who patiently waited on our over-flow list, I regret you were not able to join us. I thank you for your interest and by committing to the waiting list, you’ve given us reason to consider a “second show” for this annual event.
Until next time…
David
Thursday, February 26, 2009
DUI and the Dump Bucket
Not a PSA, just good think'n...
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Visconti's Winemaker's Dinner Menu
Reception - Bisol Prosecco
Antipasti
Smoked Pork Shank with Borlotti Soup
(Puree of Borlotti Beans with Smoked Pork Shank)
Pork Pate Campania
(Bacon wrapped Italian Country Style Pork Pate)
Insalata Radicchio
(Applewood grilled Radicchio, hot Pancetta Bacon Dressing, Cracklings)
Napeequa Randonee, Yakima Valley, 2006
Primi
Tre Belisimo Prosciutto
(Three Preservation Methods of Italian Prosciutto)
Pancetta Wrapped Prawns with Aioli
(Wild Mexican Gulf Shrimp Wrapped with House-made Pancetta Bacon)
Crostini con Pork Rillettes
(Slow Poached Savory Pork Spread on Crostini)
Napeequa Trillium Rose, Columbia Valley 2007
Secondi
Cotecchino con Lentils
(Poor man's Banquet, Large Cotecchino Sausage with Stewed Lentils)
Stinco of Pork on Grilled Polenta
(Braised Pork Shank over Wedge of Rustic Polenta)
Grilled Eggplant with Pork Ragu
(Grilled Round of Eggplant Stuffed with Pork Bolognese)
Napeequa Malbec, Columbia Valley 2006
Finale
Porcini Mushroom Risotto with Braised Pork Belly and Poached Pork Tenderloin
(Heritage Pork Belly braised in Stock and Poached Pork Tenderloin Scallops on Porcini Mushroom Risotto)
Napeequa Trailhead, Maverick Saddle Edition, Columbia Valley 2006
Dolce
Chocolates by Schocolat
Napeequa Arete, Yakima Valley Port 2005
Napeequa Gewurtztraminer Ice Wine, Yakima Valley 2007
Thursday, February 5, 2009
If Only We Could...
State of Washington plans to build more liquor stores. Do you care?