2008 Napeequa Chardonnay Ice Wine: The Birth of a Beauty
First, we should discuss for those who are new to the term “ice wine”, what it is. Why all the fuss? In simplest terms, it is a delicious, sweet wine made from grapes that are harvested frozen. While the majority of wine is made from picking grapes in September thru October (for most still white and red wine), grapes for ice wine need to “hang” on the vine for a while longer. When the grape becomes frozen the sugar concentration increases and the varietal flavors of that grape intensify.
For many of you familiar with Napeequa Vintners, you know that our past three offerings of ice wine have been made with Gewurztraminer. This will be our first Chardonnay ice wine. The Chard block neighbors the Gewurz block at this site, so I'm somewhat familiar with the microclimate there.
On December 10th, vineyard owner Charles Smasne and I discussed the upcoming high pressure ridge coming from the north that forecasters were saying would be the coldest (and longest) Arctic blast the NW has seen in two decades. A most gracious gift from the wine gods. Most winters, you keep your fingers crossed for a few sub-twenty days, this year we were going to get seven to ten!
With just over two tons under bird netting, the grapes were sampled on Saturday the 13th and came in at 30 Brix. This is before the Arctic air made it to the vineyard. The drying and freezing effects of the cold air will surely increase that. We are planning a pick early next week. Many wineries that did set grapes aside for this are picking as I write this. In my opinion, much more is to be gained by letting them hang right to the end of the freeze. At the moment, the nemesis molds that can ruin this venture (black sooty and the like) are in miniscule amounts. Some botrytis mold has been noted (a very good thing). This mold imparts lovely flavors and aromas to the wine, it also permeates the skin, allowing for moisture to leave the berry.
When the grapes are harvested and pressed, I’ll follow back up with final Brix, pics and hopefully a video.
David
P.S.
The Smasne Vineyard is located southeast of Sunnyside, WA. I source Cabernet Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer from Charles as well. He and his father Paul, spend countless hours caring for their vines. Thanks guys!!
